Good morning. Bacon-wrapped scallops are, a visit to Boston jogged my memory not too long ago, much better in principle than in observe. You see them lined up on platters at Faneuil Corridor, handed round at glittery events in Cambridge, on menus at luxe eating places and raucous sports activities bars alike. The flavors marry exquisitely, nevertheless it’s nearly inconceivable for anybody to complete cooking each substances on the similar time, so the result’s too typically crisp-gummy, unpalatable, grim. Get them organized at your peril.
However do eat bacon and scallops! They’re swamp-Yankee surf and turf, a style of New England wherever you keep. I like scallops scalded in bacon fats, as with Eric Kim’s marvelous recipe for seared scallops with glazed brussels sprouts (above), and I like them served uncooked atop crisp bacon, as in Mark Bittman’s recipe, to not point out once they’re blended into the seafood chowder that Julia Moskin discovered to make within the kitchen at Eventide Oyster Co. in Portland, Maine.
Don’t eat bacon? Strive buttery scallops with lemon and herbs. Don’t eat shellfish? Glazed bacon for you. Don’t eat both? You possibly can unfold this miso-peanut butter concoction onto absolutely anything and expertise a distinct sort of umami pleasure.
To unfold the circle wider, I do know I need to make Anna Francese Gass’s new recipe for penne al baffo, a sort of penne alla vodka with ham that’s deeply savory and filling. And I’d like to have fun the season with Hana Asbrink’s recipe for crème fraîche pasta with peas and scallions, or Melissa Clark’s recipe for creamy bucatini with spring onions and mint.
This could possibly be an important day to make the hamburger they serve at Zuni Café in San Francisco, or higher but to begin to make the hamburger — the method is definitely worth the two days spent. After salting the meat and placing it to remedy within the fridge, make a fast linguine with lemon sauce for dinner. Or do neither and make a skillet hen with black beans, rice and chiles as a substitute.
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Now, it has nothing in any respect to do with scallops or bacon, however Don Winslow’s newest, “Metropolis on Fireplace,” is each a crackerjack gangster story and a love letter to Rhode Island. Which is to say: Value studying.
Nearer to the kitchen, you’ll take pleasure in our Brett Anderson’s accounting of a visit to Tennessee, the place he foraged for ramps with Allan Benton, the king of nation hams.
The second season of “Russian Doll” has arrived! Enter the time machine, please.
Lastly, the folks in my home play Harry Kinds’s “As It Was” roughly thrice a day. There are worse outcomes for households. Be part of us! I’ll be again on Friday.
