Good morning. One summer season Sunday in 2008, Ligaya Mishan found probably the most outstanding biscotti.
They have been, she wrote for The New York Occasions Journal this week, “skinny sufficient to snap well below the tooth after which obligingly crumble.” They usually have been made by Mark Sopchak, a pastry chef who ran a flea-market bakery along with his spouse referred to as Whimsy & Spice, which Ligaya occurred upon throughout a ramble by way of Brooklyn. She quickly grew to become a daily buyer.
“Sopchak experimented with completely different flavors,” she wrote, “however the ones I favored finest, that I requested for each time and ordered as items for pals yr after yr, have been wealthy with cocoa powder and chocolate chips. Impressed partly by Mexican mole, that they had a contact of creaminess from cashews and a wild streak of chile powder, simply sufficient to make you hum.”
You possibly can’t purchase these chocolate chile biscotti now. Whimsy & Spice closed throughout the pandemic. However Ligaya satisfied Sopchak to offer her the recipe (above), which we tailored and examined to be used in a house kitchen. And should you bake these biscotti right this moment, you’ll not be sorry.
Walnuts and mushrooms mix to take the place of meat on this vegan picadillo, excellent for stuffing into tortillas or empanadas, or served merely with rice.
Rigatoni alla zozzona is a kitchen-sink Roman pasta with tomatoes, black pepper, egg, Parmesan, guanciale and sausage, a form of mash-up of amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara and gricia — with sausages. For all that, it gained’t take you greater than 40 minutes or so to prepare dinner.
I had a outstanding dinner the opposite evening at Anker in Greenport, N.Y., which began with a fragile hyperlink of merguez, the North African sausage. However the merguez wasn’t made with mutton or beef, as is conventional in Maghrebi delicacies. Will Horowitz, the restaurant’s chef, makes it with porgy, a neighborhood fish. It put me on a merguez kick: grilled merguez and onions with mint-lemon couscous tonight.
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Now, it’s a far cry from tostones or oatmeal, however this Richard Warnica piece in Hazlitt, about Mark Rothko and, improbably, the inauguration of Donald Trump as president, is sort of a journey.
It’s not likely seaside studying, but it surely’d nonetheless be an incredible e book to learn whereas visiting Chatham or Wellfleet: “The Shores of Bohemia: A Cape Cod Story 1910-1960,” by John Taylor Williams. It describes the motion of artists and writers and thinkers north from Greenwich Village in Manhattan to the Cape and, particularly, to Provincetown. (“Greenwich Village sunburnt,” the editor and journalist Floyd Dell referred to as it.)
In The Occasions, Jason Farago is superb on what’s occurring within the artwork world.
Lastly, over on Twitter, this woodcock family has moves. I’ll be again on Monday.