Good morning. Ligaya Mishan scored her pal Francine Turone’s recipe for escovitch (above) for us this week, and it’s a stunner: a fish recipe cooked for years solely by intuition and reminiscence, now memorialized via reporting and testing for all to get pleasure from.
Francine is from Kingston, Jamaica, the place the dish is canon, however hers is just not a canonical escovitch. There are raisins in there with the normal garlic, allspice, vinegar, carrots, onions and fiery Scotch bonnet peppers. They’re a nod each to her husband’s beginning in Milan and to her recollections of a household meal in Venice of sarde en saor — deep-fried sardines dripping with vinegar and piled excessive with onions, raisins and pine nuts. Some add sugar to their escovitch, in spite of everything. “There was room for extra sweetness,” Francine stated to Ligaya about her addition. “Jamaicans, don’t come at me.”
In order that’s on the docket for this weekend for certain, a dish to make on Saturday and serve the next day. (As Ligaya notes, escovitch is an echo of “escabeche,” a Spanish cooking method launched to Jamaica by colonists within the late-Fifteenth century, which makes use of vinegar each to prepare dinner fish and to protect it, an vital method in a heat local weather. It’ll be high-quality sitting out.)
I’d prefer to make Millie Peartree’s new recipe for roasted hen thighs as effectively. They’re brined with maple syrup, cider vinegar and spices that ship a tangy sweetness to the dish, which I believe would go effectively with mashed potatoes and braised celery.
It is likely to be nice to make Eric Kim’s recipe for spinach-artichoke lasagna when you’re at it: frizzled jarred artichokes and wilted child spinach in a béchamel sauce that’s creamy with cottage cheese. I might see setting that up for the freezer or fridge, then deploying it subsequent week on a night when all I need is consolation with out the work.
And don’t neglect dessert. Double strawberry cheesecake, please. Or this blueberry poppy seed cake? I can completely see a salted maple pie in my future.
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Now, it’s neither a cookbook nor actually something to do with meals, however in the event you want a novel to go together with the escovitch, as some do, you actually can’t go flawed with Marlon James’s towering “A Temporary Historical past of Seven Killings,” from 2014.
In fact you need to learn Kelefa Sanneh on Fivio Overseas, in The New Yorker, even in the event you’ve by no means heard of Fivio Overseas. It’s best to all the time learn Kelefa Sanneh.
Sydney Sweeney’s Bronco is a candy journey, and her TikToks chronicling the restoration are fairly enjoyable.
Lastly, check out these pictures of distant Triangle Island off the northern coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, by Ryan Tidman in Canadian Geographic. The tufted puffins are cool! See you on Sunday.